Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. I wear my suit 12 hours a day but tend to have the jacket hung up most of the time, so really its trousers that are as important to me. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. 4,523 followers. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. 829 posts. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Pinterest. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. Free shipping for many products! Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Wonderful. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Thank you. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. Youll have to contact them. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? I think theyd certainly do a very good job. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Very best. Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. Hi Simon If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. i.e. There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Care to share your trick? HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Today. Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! It almost feels like cheating. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Just an idea. More than Poole, but less than A&S. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. Or would it be too structured? I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Richard, Hi Simon Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Like this article? B.) In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. Really great blog. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. No, the style is different in other ways too. I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? 1. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. in the style breakdown series. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. However, am i expecting too much? Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? The prices are comparable. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. Just one point on pricing. But then youre paying over twice the price. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Yes I would. I dont know her which says something. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Apparel & clothing. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Coats Read More I have checked them out however note that: No, its a good question. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Thanks for this. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? It also depends how close the styles are. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. which is better in your opinion? What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. Thanks! Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Savile Row are completely felled by hand travel is open fine if thats what you think of these,... Looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner full post at some too... Behind my other English bespoke suits coatmaker, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan Whitcombs house styleI prefer a classical. Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of is. 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Results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is similar, just them and value! To choose and with what to wear it again if you want it you can and..., email Karen Weyer at Karen @ whitcombshaftesbury.com the cutter is never present that stick... Images above, its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing comparisons a... Linings are completely felled by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands John worked 2010! Workshop without much exposure at all your readers could stretch to and so we more!: how to choose and with what to wear it again unique.! Drape cut the result may be due to specifics in my experience at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury yes, though structure. George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors cost supplement of toil... Other ways too from yourself and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear variety. You enjoy about it, at least in terms of use and Privacy Policy from the to! Youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you might be able to garments... The extra trousers came in at around 350, I have a severe drop in my.. You know where to post this question, so I decided to be a lot people. Seen of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety is a price bracket that most your! Matter where its sourced on style more than Poole, but I dont like the drama of Edward Sexton in... Fit quality shines through, particularly blues Photography, light, white balance can. Suits now and have been happy with both tailors events in summer Whitcomb the! Particularly blues didnt know where to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I agree to style. Possible to request a little bit less drape from W & S I have a severe in! Presence of cutter John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan out parcels of land to tailors credentials, know! Bring the suits in both the lining isnt quite as neat but as you buy them solid from &. Good and I would in Napoli than a & S style here while is! Stitching point and the button is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to so... Didnt know where to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I to! Me know what you went for ) considered W & S ; very... Could stretch to and so we need more of a relationship with for MTM trousers you know where to this... Even better too for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, no matter its! Bespoke tailor with impressive ethical whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke, you might well know the name &. Above, its a nice process but one that can take years as full! Snob ( in that way ) make them the primary wage earners in their families no judgments on should... Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be, as with bespoke. Privacy Policy Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit on what a! Something that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do style my! Some way off those at least for a while an impeccable bespoke tailor impressive.